I’ll say it straight, because it’s a truth worth knowing before you begin: a mohair sweater is usually ruined not after years of wear, but after one wash at the wrong temperature or one session in the dryer. The good news is that caring for mohair is much simpler than internet panic suggests, provided you understand a few things. And once you do, you stop memorizing rules and start knowing why it should be done this way, not another.
And immediately, an important disclaimer that distinguishes this guide from most: our sweaters are not made of pure mohair. They are a carefully composed blend of mohair with warm wool and a small amount of strengthening fiber, which changes the care rules slightly compared to what you might read about "pure mohair." I will therefore write specifically about this fabric, not in generalizations.
This text completes our mohair guide alongside two others: if you are wondering if mohair will be itchy, check out our “does mohair itch” text; if you are looking for styling ideas, we have a separate guide on combining ribbed knit with mohair. Here, we focus on one thing: how to keep your sweater soft and beautiful for years.
Before you put your sweater in water, understand what you are dealing with
All mohair care stems from one feature of the fiber, so let’s start with that; then every rule will become obvious.
Mohair, like wool, is a protein fiber covered in microscopic scales (like roof tiles). As long as the scales lie flat, the fiber is smooth and soft. But under the influence of three factors at once—heat, moisture, and friction—the scales lift, catch on each other, and permanently interlock. This phenomenon is called felting: the sweater shrinks, hardens, and loses its texture. And most importantly: this process is irreversible. There is no wash that will return a felted sweater to its original form.
The rest of this guide is essentially one rule in various forms: do everything to avoid lifting those scales. Avoid heat, avoid harsh friction, avoid thermal shock. Once you understand this, every "don't" on the label makes sense—it’s not a manufacturer’s whim, but the physics of the fiber.
And what does the blend in our mixture change? A touch of strengthening fiber (polyamide) increases mechanical resistance; the sweater is slightly more durable against abrasion and less prone to pilling than pure mohair. The wool in the composition provides warmth and stabilizes the shape. But, and this is key, wool and mohair are still protein fibers, so the basic care rules apply just the same. The blend gives a margin of safety, not an exemption from the rules. You can find more about how we select fabrics on our Our fabrics page.
The most important mohair care rule: wash rarely
This is advice that most guides skip, but which is more important than any washing instruction: the best mohair care is //not washing it// as often as you think. Every wash, even the gentlest, is a micro-stress for protein fiber. The less often you wash, the longer the sweater retains its softness and shape.
Fortunately, mohair and wool have a natural self-refreshing ability; the fiber wicks moisture and doesn’t retain odors like synthetics. In most situations, instead of washing, one of these three milder methods is enough:
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Airing out. After wearing, hang your sweater for a few hours in an airy place (exceptionally, on a hanger, dry knitwear won't stretch for a moment) or lay it flat. Fresh air removes most daily odors, and the sweater is ready to wear again.
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Steam refreshing. A sweater hung in the bathroom during a hot shower or gently touched with steam from a steamer (from a distance, without touching the fabric) regains freshness and fluffiness. Steam relaxes the fibers and neutralizes odors without a single immersion in water.
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Freezing, but know what it really helps with. Putting the sweater in a bag in the freezer overnight can reduce odor (the cold puts the bacteria responsible for the scent to sleep) and reduce static. To be honest, though: freezing //does not// remove pilling; that’s a popular myth. A comb or sweater shaver helps with pills, not a freezer. For odor, airing out is actually more reliable than frost.
For small stains, don't wash the whole sweater; treat it locally: a bit of mild detergent on a dampened spot, gentle pressing with a soft cloth (never rubbing), and rinsing with cool water in that same area. Leave the rest of the sweater alone.
How to wash a mohair sweater step by step
When washing is truly necessary, the method counts. Wash our sweaters by hand only; this is not over-zealousness, but the only way to have full control over temperature and friction—the two factors that determine felting.
Step by step: hand washing
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Fill a basin with cool water, and maintain one temperature. The water should be cool and pleasant to the hand: not hot, but not icy either. Thermal shock (moving from warm to cold) lifts the scales just as effectively as heat itself, which is why the water for washing and rinsing should be the same temperature.
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Dissolve a mild agent before putting the sweater in. A liquid designed for wool (which often contains ingredients that moisturize the fiber) is best. Avoid regular powders and detergents with enzymes; enzymes "digest" the protein that mohair is made of, as well as bleaches and liquid brighteners. Dissolve the agent in the water before submerging the sweater so the detergent doesn't settle in spots.
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Wash by kneading, not rubbing. Gently squeeze and submerge the sweater in the water as if you were massaging it. Never rub part against part or scrub; friction is a direct recipe for pilling and felting. A few minutes of gentle kneading is plenty.
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Rinse in water of the same temperature. Pour out the detergent water, fill the basin with clean water of the same temperature, and rinse again gently by kneading. Repeat until the water is clear.
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Never wring out. Wringing twists and permanently deforms the fibers. Instead, remove the sweater, press gently to drain the water, and soak up the rest with a towel (more on that in the next section).
Can mohair be machine washed?
In short: we do not recommend machine washing our sweaters. Even a “wool” or “hand wash” cycle involves the rotation of the drum, which means friction and movement that protein fiber dislikes, and the risk of felting increases with every cycle. A few minutes of hand washing is the cheapest policy for a sweater's long life. If you absolutely have no choice, use a wool cycle with cold water, place the sweater in a mesh bag, and turn off or minimize the spin, but do so at your own risk, consciously.
Drying: the stage where most sweaters are lost
If washing is risk moment number one, drying is number two, and two mistakes are made here, both irreversible.
Mistake one: tumble dryer. The combination of heat and rotation is the fastest way to felt and shrink in the history of clothing care. One session can shrink a sweater by a size and turn fluffy yarn into hard felt. A tumble dryer and mohair are completely incompatible—never, even on "cool," even "for a moment."
Mistake two: a hanger. Wet mohair is heavy, and wet protein fiber stretches under its own weight. A sweater hung vertically will lengthen, and the shoulders and hem will deform. That is why mohair is dried exclusively flat.
Proper drying looks like this: lay the washed sweater on a clean, dry towel, roll it up with the towel into a loose roll, and press gently so the towel absorbs excess water (do not wring the roll). Then, lay the sweater on a fresh, dry towel on a flat surface, on a drying rack or table, and use your hands to give it the proper shape: even out the sleeves, arrange the turtleneck, model the hem. The fiber will dry in the form you give it now. Dry away from radiators and direct sunlight; spot heat shrinks unevenly, and UV rays take away color. A dense sweater dries flat in anywhere from several hours to a day; this is longer than on a clothesline and is the only "cost" of owning something that will last for years.
Pilling: why it happens and how to remove it without ruining the sweater
Let’s be honest, because we prefer the truth to promises: every sweater made of natural fibers can pill slightly over time, most often in areas of greatest friction: under the arms, on the sides (where a bag rubs), and at waist height. This is not a defect, but a natural trait of the yarn: shorter fibers work their way to the surface and clump into balls. The addition of strengthening fiber in our blend limits this process, but it cannot be completely ruled out in any natural knitwear.
How to limit pilling? Less friction and less washing: wash inside out, gently, rarely, and don't wear a rough crossbody bag on the same sweater day after day.
And when balls do appear, remove them gently, because mohair is not a smooth sweater; it has fluffy hair that is easy to damage with an overly aggressive tool. The safest is a special cashmere/mohair comb or a clothing shaver on the lowest setting, guided lightly over the surface, with the fabric laid flat. Work slowly and with a delicate touch; the point is to collect the balls, not to shave off the characteristic haze. We advise against razors and scissors: it’s too easy to cut the fibers.
Shedding, what is normal and what is not
It is worth distinguishing two things, because they are easily mistaken for a defect. Natural shedding of delicate fibers is a typical mohair trait; fluffy yarn leaves individual hairs on the clothing underneath, especially at the beginning of wear. This is normal and clearly decreases over time after a few wears. The solution is trivial: pair lighter mohair with a darker base layer consciously and keep a regular lint roller on hand.
It would be something else if the sweater were actually falling apart in clumps or had holes; that is no longer a "mohair trait," but a signal of damage (e.g., by moths or abrasion) and a topic for a separate intervention, which I’ll address in a moment. But the shedding of individual fibers is no cause for concern; it is a sign that you are dealing with a real, natural fiber.
Rescue in trouble: felted, stretched, snagged, worn
The sweater has shrunk or felted
First, honestly: severe felting is irreversible; no method can untangle permanently interlocked scales. But for slight shrinkage, it is worth a try: soak the sweater for 20–30 minutes in lukewarm water with a bit of hair conditioner or delicate shampoo (they relax the fiber), and then, while drying flat, very gently and evenly stretch the fabric with your hands to the desired dimensions, watching the seams. The method doesn’t always reverse shrinkage one hundred percent, but it often saves the situation. This is the only moment when it is worth "stretching" mohair, and only while wet—never dry.
The sweater has stretched
The opposite problem, easier to fix. Wool and mohair have some shape memory; wash the sweater according to this guide, and while drying flat, use your hands to "squeeze" the stretched parts to their proper form. The fiber often returns to its original dimensions while drying. For the future: fold the sweater on a shelf instead of hanging it, because it is the hanger that most often stretches knitwear.
A snagged or pulled thread
Never cut a pulled loop; that’s a straight road to a hole. Instead, gently pull it through to the inside of the sweater: from the inside, with a crochet hook, a wool needle, or just your fingers. The thread will hide, and the weave will remain intact. Then, stretch the fabric slightly around the snagged area to even out the stitches.
Odor that doesn't disappear after airing
Smoke, cooking smells, intense perfume? Before you reach for water, try milder methods: hang the sweater overnight in the bathroom after a hot shower (steam neutralizes odors) or put it folded in a bag in the freezer overnight (the cold limits the bacteria responsible for the scent). Both methods save the sweater from a full wash, and the fewer washes, the longer its life.
Storing mohair off-season, do it once, and do it right
Mohair is seasonal clothing, so it lies folded in the closet for half a year, and how you store it determines the state in which it returns in the spring. Four rules:
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Wash or air out the sweater before storing. This is the most important storage rule, and the most often ignored. Moths don't fly to wool, but to invisible dirt: sweat, food residues, cosmetics. A clean sweater is much less tempting to them. Never store a sweater "for later" when it's dirty.
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Fold, never hang. Over many months on a hanger, the sweater will stretch under its own weight. Fold it loosely and put it on a shelf, preferably so it isn't crushed by the weight of other things.
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Store in breathable material. A cotton garment bag, a box with holes, or a linen bag—yes. A sealed plastic bag—no: it retains moisture, which promotes mold and a musty smell. A natural fiber must breathe even in the closet.
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Deter moths naturally. A bag of lavender, cedar wood, or cedar oil deter moths without the chemical smell of mothballs. It is worth checking the stored sweaters once in the middle of the season and airing them out; the check takes a minute, and saves disappointment in the spring.
Mohair vs. rib knit, why we care for them quite differently
If you have both our ribbed dresses and mohair sweaters in your closet, remember one thing, because it is the most common source of mistakes: these two fabrics are cared for differently. You can machine wash ribbed cotton knitwear on a delicate cycle, up to 30°C, low spin, inside out (we described the full instructions in a separate ribbed knit care guide). Mohair, as you have just read, only by hand, in cool water, by kneading.
They are united by one thing, though, and it’s worth remembering as a common denominator: both fabrics are dried flat and neither is ever put in a tumble dryer. Ribbed cotton is more forgiving, mohair requires more tenderness, but the philosophy is the same: gently, at a low temperature, with respect for the natural fiber. It is the same care, just in two different intensities.
Care is part of what we believe in
At Nudyess, we choose natural, noble fabrics and sew in Poland because we believe in fashion that stays with you for years, not for a season—less, but better. But durability doesn’t end in our workshop; it begins for good in your bathroom. A sweater you take care of doesn't become waste after one winter; it serves for years, and its softness stays with it because you care for it. That is why we treat this guide just as seriously as the product itself: because clothing for every one of us is also clothing that we know how to protect with you. If you want to see how our sweaters look when worn, check out our sweater and cardigan collection, and then simply take care of yours just as I described here. It will repay you for years.
— Sandra Do Manh, founder of Nudyess
Common questions about washing and mohair care
Do I have to hand wash mohair?
Yes, wash our mohair-wool sweaters exclusively by hand. Only hand washing gives control over temperature and friction—the two factors that cause fiber felting. A washing machine, even on a wool cycle, means drum movement and an increasing risk of permanent damage.
At what temperature should I wash mohair?
In cool water, pleasant to the hand—not hot, but not icy either. Just as important as the temperature itself is maintaining it: the water for washing and for rinsing should be the same temperature, because thermal shock (warm–cold) felts fiber just as much as heat.
How often should I wash a mohair sweater?
As rarely as possible. Mohair and wool are self-refreshing, so in most cases, airing them out, steaming, or spot-cleaning is enough. Every wash is a micro-stress for the fibers; the less frequently you wash it, the longer the sweater will retain its softness and shape.
Does freezing a sweater remove pilling?
No, that’s a popular myth. Freezing may reduce odors (cold puts bacteria to sleep) and minimize static, but it has no effect on pills. Pilling should be removed with a delicate mohair comb or a fabric shaver on the lowest setting, moved lightly over the fabric surface.
How to remove pilling from mohair without damaging the sweater?
Gently and slowly. Use a special cashmere/mohair comb or a fabric shaver on the lowest setting, with the garment laid flat, moving the tool lightly over the surface. The goal is to collect the pills, not to shave off the fluffy haze. Avoid razors and scissors, as it is easy to cut the fiber.
What to do if a mohair sweater has shrunk?
If it is severely felted, unfortunately, there is nothing to be done; the process is irreversible. If it has shrunk slightly, try this: soak the sweater in lukewarm water with a bit of hair conditioner for 20–30 minutes, and while drying it flat, gently and evenly stretch it with your hands back to its proper dimensions. It doesn't always work perfectly, but it often saves the day.
How to store mohair in the summer to keep moths away?
First, wash or thoroughly air out the sweater; moths are attracted to invisible dirt, not just the wool itself. Then, fold it (do not hang it) and store it in a breathable material, like a cotton garment bag or a linen pouch, never in sealed plastic. Add a sachet of lavender or cedarwood and check on the sweaters once halfway through the season.
Does a blend of wool and polyamide change how it should be washed?
Slightly, in your favor. The addition of a strengthening fiber makes the sweater a bit more mechanically durable and less prone to pilling than pure mohair, and the wool helps stabilize its shape. However, wool and mohair are still protein fibers, so all the basic rules (cool water, hand washing, drying flat, no tumble dryer) still apply. The blend provides a margin of safety, not an exemption from the rules.